The Hemingway Bar may be at the Ritz, but in his day, the writer and a whole cohort of bohèmes spent more of their time at the brasserie in the Lutetia. Today, after a massive four-year renovation, she’ll swing open her 108-year-old glass doors again.
The only grande dame on the more artistic Left Bank of Paris, its brasseries and bars were always a sort of “living room” through the decades for the whole Saint-Germain-des-Près hood. “We respect her DNA,” says Jean-Luc Cousty, the long-time general manager. “The Lutetia has always had that paradoxical status of being accessible to all, but with a level of luxury that feels traditionally French.” In other words, it has the necessary edge of the Left Bank, with the polish and sparkle you’d expect of the Right.
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